dee Cuisine

The James Beard House Experience

Two weeks ago, I attended the GQ and Patrón event at the James Beard House in New York City. Quoting the event website:

2011 James Beard Foundation Award semi-finalist chef Casey Lane, of The Tasting Kitchen in Venice, California wows critics with his ingredient-driven cuisine. A reservation at the Venice Beach bistro is almost impossible to score, so reserve your spot for Lane’s bold, handcrafted cooking at this special dinner presented at the James Beard House by GQ and Patrón, featuring a selection of Patrón signature cocktails.

The event had a reception featuring passed hors d’oeuvre and wine and cocktail pairings, followed by a seated meal which included 5 courses and wine pairings for each course. Preparing myself for the evening, I took a look at the menu, and a lot of the items were, I would say, exotic, and I wasn’t sure if I would like it or not. Arriving at the James Beard House, I put all the fears aside, and came with an open mind, ready to taste whatever was set before me, even if there was bull’s blood.

Below is the Menu Casey Lane set for the evening:

Hors d’Oeuvre

One Hog Pork Rillettes with Mustard, Maldon Salt, and Cracked Pepper
Cornish Hen Confit Escabèche with Green Olive Purée and Chervil
Marinated Bull’s Blood Beets with Shell Beans and Salsa Rustica

Domaine de Montcy Cour-Cheverny Plénitude NV
Signature Patrón Cocktails:

Dinner

Mackerel Crudo with Persimmon Tomato, Saffron, Coriander, and Osetra Caviar
Christian Venier Hauts de Madon Blanc 2009

Fried Tomales Bay Oyster with Spicy Gribiche, Candied Lemon, and Chervil Salad
Bodegas Carballo Listan Blanco 2008

Handmade Strozzapreti with Periwinkle Snails, English Peas, Mint, Bread Crumbs, and Pork Brodo
Philippe Bornard Savagnin Les Marnes 2005

Pork Coppa Confit with Shell Beans, Green Tomato Mostarda, Red Frill Mustard Greens, and Pickled Cipollini
COS Nero d’Avola Scyri 2001

Apricot Sorbetto with Hazelnut Praline and Brown Butter Budino

Cornmeal Crêpe with Strawberries, Mascarpone, and Fried Rosemary
Bruder Dr. Becker Ruländer Beerenauslese 2006

My favorite of the passed hors d’oeuves was, believe it or, the bull’s blood beets, although both the pork rillettes and cornish hen confit were delicious. No, there is no bull’s blood used in the recipe; it’s actually the name of the beet which is known for its leaves which are normally served in salads, while the actual beet is best harvest while young. The beets were tender, refreshing and flavorful. I actually had 2 servings of it. Not bad for a person who dislikes eating beets.

Bull’s blood beets

Several cocktails were also served, and all were equally delicious. My favorite was Beehive, a simple cocktail made with Patrón Reposado Tequila, Creme Yvette liqueur, lemon, and simple syrup. On a humid evening, this drink will keep you cool.

I was impressed with every dish served at the sit-down dinner, with the mackerel being my least favorite simply because I am not a fan of raw mackerel. All other dishes were outstanding. I was surprised at how delicious the Fried Tomales Bay Oyster was. You’d be surprised to find out there was oyster in it since the chef masked the flavor so well with the delicious batter.

The Periwinkle Snails were excellent. My first time having snails as I often cringe at the thought of eating snails. What was I thinking? I’m officially a fan. Slightly earthy taste, I’d make an audacious comparison to a mushroom for those who have not eaten snails.

Alas, the final entree was the Pork Coppa Confit. Talk about save the best for last. The pork was a favorite amongst the other diners. If that doesn’t convince you, someone tweeted “Pork coppa confit brings crowd to knees.”

And finally, the desert – the gorgeous cornmeal crêpe with strawberries, mascarpone, and fried rosemary. It was a delicious marriage of flavors that had me begging for seconds. Shouldn’t I have been full from eating so many courses? Fried rosemary was a great touch to the dessert, giving a contrast in flavors, yet complimenting it. The wine pairing, however, was not good, at least for me. The berry wine Ruländer Beerenauslese was a bit powerful for the desert, but who am I to judge. There were only 460 bottles produced for this vintage. I should be gracious.

Cornmeal Crêpe with Strawberries, Mascarpone, and Fried Rosemary

Thank you again Patrón for inviting me as a your guest. I’m looking forward to drinking with you soon.

James Beard House
167 West 12th St.
NY, NY 10011

The James Beard Foundation’s mission is “to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s diverse culinary heritage and future.” Learn more about the James Beard Foundation at www.jamesbeard.org.

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